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Florian
Der alte Mann und das Hub

pbhub.de
Beiträge: 26472
Wohnort: Frankfurt am Meer

BeitragVerfasst am: 09.03.2005 15:26   Antworten mit Zitat #1

Derbe von pbnation geklaut, aber sauübersichtlich und extrem hilfreich.

Zitat:
Originally posted by F.O.D.
x2 hat folgendes geschrieben::
This thread contains information about everything you need to know about the ICD Freestyle. Including how it works, upgrades, troubleshooting, etc... I have gathered this information from various sources including pbnation, icd-owners, and ICD.

[b]How a Freestyle Works
Bright red is HPR air and bright yellow is LPR air.

The LPR air holds the bolt back keeping the breech open untill the trigger is pressed. When the trigger is pressed, it initiates the firing sequence: the solenoid is shut off and the LPR air is released. Next, the HPR air from the inline regulator pushes the bolt forward releasing the air, firing a paintball out of the barrel. Finally, the solenoid is activated again and the LPR air pushes the bolt back to its original position.
Note: I do not take any credit for this animation. Hellbore from PBNation and the ICD Owners Group made it.


Official ICD Freestyle Manual
http://www.icdpaintball.com/_newsite_/pdfs/manuals/FreeStyle.pdf
Always Read the Manual Before Shooting Your Marker!

Generations of the Freestlye
2004 Generation 1 - Vert frame, sideplates match anno'd to color of gun, drop forward and on/off standard



2004 Generation 2 - .45 Intimidator-style clamshell frame, black sideplates, rail and on/off standard. Some came with the HE bolt.



Bonebrake Freestyle - Bonebrake milling, .45 frame, no side plates, cp regulator, stiffi barrel, ccm clamping feedneck, rail and on/off asa




Naughty Dogs - Naughty Dogs milling, .45 Intimidator-style clamshell frame, no sideplates, rail and on/off standard, Naughty Dogs trigger, Naughty Dogs LPR, HE bolt standard




2005 Generation 1 - new milling, .45 Intimidator-style clamshell frame, no sideplates, rail and on/off standard, HE bolt standard




2005 Freestyle Pro - new milling, .45 Intimidator-style clamshell frame, no sideplates, qev's for faster cycling, improved eye logic, no back block - valve removed through rear of freestyle




Naughty Dogs Freestyle Pro - custom naughty dogs milling. more specs to come. this will be released at Huntington Beach.



Epic Freestyle Pro - custom team epic milling. more specs to come. this will be released at Huntington Beach.



Destructive Customs Freestyle Pro - custom milling. more specs to come.


2004 FS Board - two switches, one for PDS, one to turn gun on and off
2005 FS Board - one switch, to disable PDS turn the gun on while holding the trigger

Out of the Box
1. Attach one 9volt battery to the 9volt battery adapter inside the grip frame.
2. Attach your nitrogen/compressed air tank to your marker. A low pressure tank is recommended for the non-high efficiency bolts; whereas, a high pressure tank is recommended for the high efficiency bolt to minimize drop off during high rates of fire.
3. Turn your freestyle to eye off mode(Generation 2 FS's hold the trigger down then flip the switch to turn it on)
4. Adjust you HPR according to whether or not you have HE bolt or not. Main Operating Pressure for Non-High Efficiency Bolts - 200-280psi
Main Operating Pressure for High Efficiency Bolts - 300-350psi
As the regulators break in adjust accordingly to your FPS.
5. Once your HPR is set adjust your LPR. Twisting IN is more more pressure to push the bolt back, twisting OUT means less pressure so your bolt will go forward. You need to have the LPR adjusted so that the bolt clears the feed tube(goes all the way back) every time you shoot. An extra 1/8 to 1/4 turn is recommended for best performance.
6. Balance your regulators to get a desired velocity (FPS). More HPR pressure means more FPS, less HPR pressure means less FPS. When u do this make sure that the bolt is always clearing the feed tube if not adjust accordingly.

Upgrades
Boards
NOX Lite - Reprogramming of Stock Board - $24.99
http://www.knutec.com/

NOX Board (Coming Soon) - Drop in Board - $???
http://www.knutec.com/

Vaporworks Chaos Board - Drop in Board for Gen 1 FS's only - $79.95
http://paintballtrader.com/xcart3/customer/product.php?productid=242&cat=47&page=2

Vaporworks Chaos 3 Board (Coming Soon) - Drop in Board for Gen 2 and later Fs's - $??? (probably around $80)
http://www.vaporworks.net

TAG Sportz Predator Freestyle Code - Reprogramming of Stock Board - $99.95
http://www.tagsportz.com/sales/freestyle.htm

Bolts
ICD High Efficiency Bolt (comes stock on newer freestyles) - $110.00
http://www.icdpaintball.com/_newsite_/support.asp

Greg from ICD's Bolt Mod - $50.00
- Greg will perform a mod on the bolt/valve assembly that will improve cycling speed of the freestyle
http://www.icdpaintball.com/_newsite_/support.asp

Triggers
ICD Prodigy Trigger - $25.00
http://www.shorepaintballsupplies.com/prodigytrigger.html

Vaporworks S-4 Bearing Trigger - $34.95
http://paintballtrader.com/xcart3/customer/product.php?productid=309&cat=0&page=

Acid Customs Triggers (many different styles to choose from) - $???
http://www.acidcustom.com/triggers.htm

TheBetterOne's Custom Triggers - $25.00
http://www.freewebs.com/bettertriggers/indiancreekdesigns.htm

LPR's
JDS Freestyle LPR (out 2/14/05) -$60.00

http://www.stdindustry.com/products.htm

Greg from ICD's LPR Mod - $25.00
- Greg will port out your LPR for higher flow for improved cycle rates
http://www.icdpaintball.com/_newsite_/support.asp

more lpr's coming soon

HPR's
Freestyles can use any screw in inline regulator.

Feednecks
The Freestyle uses Bushmaster threaded feednecks.

Barrels
The Freestyle use Autococker/Intimidator threaded barrels.

Freestyle Products by Deadlywind
Freestyle Carbon Fiber Grip Panels


Stubby LPR Cap


Flyweight Grip Milling - no external cuts. takes off 2.8oz
[/B]
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Florian
Der alte Mann und das Hub

pbhub.de
Beiträge: 26472
Wohnort: Frankfurt am Meer

BeitragVerfasst am: 25.03.2005 02:28   Antworten mit Zitat #2

Zitat:


Airing Up and Tuning a Freestyle
hi there boys and girls. i have seen a million and a half threads asking about this or asking about a leak. so heres the easy way to air up and tune your freestyle:

1) first make sure that your gun is ready to go. were you just messing with it? had it opened up? are all parts on and ready? ok, good. it is better and easier to air up a freestyle without paint; so hold off on putting your hopper on and loading up for now.

2) now you're going to want to turn off your regs; both of them. there is a allen head screw inside the end cap of each reg. for each of the regs turn the allen screw COUNTER-CLOCKWISE approx 2-3 full turns (do not take the screw all the way out).

3) next make sure your on/off is all the way open, and then screw in your tank. then screw in your on/off until it catches the pin and pressurizes; and give it another 1/4-1/2 more after it first pressurizes and thats it. DO NOT screw the on/off in all the way.

4) now we're going to turn on the hpr. the hpr output pressure is displayed on the gauge in the ASA. depending on whether your gun is brand new or used, theres going to be some variance here. turning the allen screw CLOCKWISE turns on the reg and increases the pressure. when adjusting regs always do it VERY SLOWLY. dont just crank it.

a) for a brand new gun, you're going to want to set the pressure between 300-320 or so. NOT 350.

b) for a partially or fully broken in gun, set the hpr pressure so it reads approx 270-300 on the gauge.

edit: i should state that once a freestyle is fully broken in and the lpr is set correctly, you should see fps approx around what your hpr is set to. i.e. i just played a tourney last sunday and the max fps was 265. i was shooting +-3 around 245 fps and on my ASA gauge read just under 250.

5) now that you've adjusted the hpr, we can move to the lpr. VERY slowly screw the lpr allen screw CLOCKWISE, pulling the trigger all the while. keep pulling the trigger and adjusting the screw until the gun shoots and cycles normally with no drop off or change of pitch.

6) now that youve adjusted the lpr its time to chrono up. put your hopper on and load up the paint. get an initial reading. now depending on the field and how you play, your velocity might be good, or need to be adjusted either up or down. if its too high, try decreasing the hpr in 1/8-1/16 turn increments; shooting a shot over the chrono between each. if the gun is too low, again in 1/8-1/16 increments, increase the hpr until you reach desired velocity.

thats it folks. the easy way to air up a freestyle. it took a little while to explain but once you get it down it will take you less than 30 seconds and you will be a master at balancing regs.

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Florian
Der alte Mann und das Hub

pbhub.de
Beiträge: 26472
Wohnort: Frankfurt am Meer

BeitragVerfasst am: 01.08.2005 11:57   Antworten mit Zitat #3

Troubleshooting für Freestyles.

Zitat:





Leak down barrel:

* There are 6 places that would cause your FS to leak down the barrel.
* 1. The front 020 oring on the outside of your cylinder assembly
* 2. The 017 oring on the bolt.
* 3. The 017 oring in the inside front of the cylinder assembly.
* 4. 06-07 on the valve stem.
* 5. Valve tip on the inside is scratched.
* 6. 011 on the outside of the valve housing.

To determine which oring is leaking here are some tricks. put your finger down the feed neck and cover the bolt tip. if your finger is pushed off, it is leaking from 2,4,5,6. If it doesn't push your finger off it is leaking from 1,3. If the leak is sputtering it is probably leaking from 3.

Marker doesn't recock:


* Check the orings at 1,2,3
* LPR is set to low.
* LPR isn't working properly.
* Marker isn't aired up.
* Solenoid could be blown.

Leak out of grip:

* Check oring 1.
* LPR is set to high
* LPR is put together wrong.
* The 010 in the back block is nicked, cut or missing.
* Solenoid is loose.
* The hose barbs are leaking.
* The blue hose is leaking.
* Missing 006 oring between the manifold and body.
* 4-40 manifold screws are loose
* Rear 020 oring on the cylinder assembly is nicked, cut or missing.
* Solenoid could be blown.


If air is leaking out of the grip and the marker is only half cycling this would be a LPR issue. The LPR is turned up to high or is put together wrong. If the marker cyles but still leaks check to see if the oring at position 1 is messed up, and make sure the solenoid is tight. Also make sure the gasket is correctly installed (The cut end should be facing toward the front of the marker.) You can remove half of the clam shell and retighten the two frame screws. This will allow you to air up the marker and still check for leaks on the inside. A bottle of soapy water will greatly help you find the leak. If you see bubbles it is leaking! You can push on the blue hose to find if it is leaking. Once you have removed the blue hose you need to replace it.(The hose material doesn't like to be reused.)


Leak out of the back of marker:

* Check the back 020 oring on the cylinder assembly.
* The 010 is nicked, cut or missing were the rear air transfer tube slides into the rear air transfer block.
* 019 is missing between cylinder assembly and the back block.
* 010 is missing between the back block and rear air tranfser block.
* Rear air transfer tube is loose.

Eye screw stripped:

Send it to your local authorized ICD tech, or send it to ICD.

Marker doesn't shoot:

* Check your battery and all the wire connections.
* Make sure the microswitch set screw isn't screwed into far.
* Fried board.
* Blown solenoid.
* The PDS is working and you don't have the breech blocked.

Interchangeable screws and springs:

* The asa mounting screws are the same as a BKO tray screws.
* The ball detent springs are the same as the LPR and HPR springs.
* The ball detent spring in the Cat series are the same.
* The brasscups in the regs are the same.
* The blue hose can be replaced with cocker hose. A FS isn't as important as the FSP for using the bigger hose.

Screws and Sizes:

* ASA mounting screws: (2) 6/32 X 1/4" cap screws
* Manifold screws: (2) 4-40 X 1/4" cap screws
* Grip screws: (4) 6/32 X 1/4" button head
* Ball detent screws: (2) 4-40 X 1/4" cap screws (Gen1-2 need two threads removed.)
* Grip mounting screws: (1) 10-32 X 1/4" button head.(front), (1) 10-32 X 1/2" button head. (back)
* Trigger pin: (1) 3/32 X 5/8" dowel pin
* Trigger set screws: (3) 8/32 X 1/4", 8/32 X 3/8"
* Rear air transfer screw: 8/32 X 1/4" cap screws
* FSP on/off set screw: (1) 6/32 X 3/16" set screw
* FSP grip mounting screws: (2) 10-32 X 3/8" button head
* FSP rear air transfer block: (2) 6/32 X 1/4" cap screws
* FSP ball detent screws: (2) 4-40 X 1/4" cap screws
* FSP microswitch screws: (2) 1-72 X 3/8" cap screws
* FSPV-7 mainifold screws: (2) 4-40 X 1/4" cap screws
* Bottomline: (2) 10-32 X 1/2" cap screws
* FSP LPR, HPR adjustment screw: 5/16-24x1/2 set screw

Orings and Sizes:

* Cyl. Housing: Front inside (1) 017, 70 D, urethane, Outside (2) 020 buna
* Piston (bolt): (1) 017, 70 D. urethane
* Valve pin: FS(1) 006 urethane, FSP(1) 007 urethane
* Valve tip: 011 buna
* Cylinder to back block: (1) 019 buna
* Rear air transfer block: (2) 010 buna
* Rear air transfer tube: (1) 010 buna
* FSP ASA: (1) 007 urethane
* LPR: (1) 017 buna, (1) 016 buna, (1) 010 buna, (1) 015 urethane(plunger), reg seal
* HPR: (1) 018 buna, (1) 010 buna, (1) 015 urethane(plunger), reg seal
* Bottomline: (2) 010 buna

The bolt tip keeps coming loose:

* To fix the Bolt tip you can put a small amount of blue loctite, teflon tape or a very small amount of silicone on the threads then just screw on your bolt tip.

lubing of a FS:

* Use lube Gel or Super Lube.
* The inside of the powertube tip(valve tip) should be lubed with the lube gel. If you have the thicker super lube it can be used also.
* The cylinder assembly needs to be lubed with Lube Gel, or eighter kind of thick or thin Super Lube.
* Please note: The outside of the power tube does not get any lube. If you lube this part please remove it. This is the number one cause of FSDO.
* Only the plungers in the regs need to be lubed.
* Put a couple of drops of the liguid lube supplied with the marker down the LPR to lube the solenoid. (shoot the marker to cycle the lube thru the solenoid.)
* The marker should be lubed after every day of play.

Lubing the FSP-FSPV7:

* Use Lube Gel or Super Lube.
* The inside of the powertube tip(valve tip) should be lubed with the lube gel. If you have the thicker Super Lube it can be used also.
* The cylinder assembly needs to be lubed with the lube that is supplied with the marker or the oil style of super lube. The thicker lube gel and super lube will slow down the cycle speed.
* Please note: The outside of the power tube does not get any lube. If you lube this part please remove it. This is the number one cause of FSDO.
* Only the plungers in the regs need to be lubed.
* Put a couple of drops of the liguid lube supplied with the marker down the LPR to lube the solenoid. (shoot the marker to cycle the lube thru the solenoid.)
* The marker should be lubed after every day of play.

My opinions of the other lubes out there:

* Dow 33: This lube disapates fast and doesn't work really well.
* Slick Honey: This lube works well, but it is harmfull to your orings. you will end up replacing your orings more often.
* Lithium: This lube works well. But is not as good as Lube Gel or Super Lube.
* Shocker lube: This is the same stuff as dow 33.
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Florian
Der alte Mann und das Hub

pbhub.de
Beiträge: 26472
Wohnort: Frankfurt am Meer

BeitragVerfasst am: 05.09.2005 16:30   Antworten mit Zitat #4

http://www.clan-df.us/teak/H2GF.doc
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Florian
Der alte Mann und das Hub

pbhub.de
Beiträge: 26472
Wohnort: Frankfurt am Meer

BeitragVerfasst am: 14.12.2005 18:42   Antworten mit Zitat #5

Zitat:


To understand what marker is what, we first have to go down the line of what markers ICD has made. First letters are descriptions of what marker is what. Its easier to say FSP then write out the words Freestyle Pro.

2004:

FS Gen 1 (has 90 degree frame or 45 degree frame, no HE kit, side molding, 2 switch board)
FS Gen 2 (has 45 degree frame, no HD kit, no side molding, 2 switch board)
05FS Gen 2 rev 2 OR 05 freestyle (has 45 degree frame, HE kit, updated board)

3rd party markers:
BBFS Bonebreak Gen 1 (has 45 grip, Chaos board, HE kit, switch on side)
NDFS Naughty Dogs 05 (NOX board, HE kit, ND milling with paw, ND trigger)
RLFS Russian Legion* (No board info, HE kit or early prototype new style HE, RL milling)

Efficiency: NON HE: 700 shots off a 68/45, HE: 1000 shots off a 68/45
Speed: 15-18bps off stock board and Chaos board
Price NEW: (Gen 1 NON HE $799) (Gen 2 HE $799) (05ND $949) (Bonebreak $999)
Price USED: (Gen 1 NON HE $250) (Gen 2 HE $300) (05ND $450) (Bonebreak $450)

2005:

FSP Freestyle Pro (has 45 degree frame, HE kit, NOX light, slimmer body, lighter weight)
V7FS Freestyle V7 (has 45 degree frame, Predator code, HE kit)

3rd party markers:
NDFSP Freestyle Pro Naughty dogs (NOX board, ND milling with paw, ND trigger)
ABFSP Adventure Beach Freestyle Pro (NOX light, AB milling)
NDV7 Freestyle V7 Naughty Dogs (NOX Reloaded, ND milling with paw, ND trigger)

Efficiency: FSP HE: 1000 shots off a 68/45, V7 1200 shots off a 68/45
Speed: 15-18bps off NOX light stock board, 21bps off Predator code, 25+bps off NOX Reloaded)
Price New: (FSP $649) (V7 $749) (ABFS $999) (NDV7 or NDFSP $949)
Price Used: (FSP $500) (V7 $650) (ABFS $800) (NDV7 or NDFSP $850)

Lets break down each marker group:

First Series:

First series 2004 freestyles have directly mounted solenoids; they have light weight smaller bodies too. Some of the basic problems were efficiency and reliability. They were known to break down due to mostly user error. After a while the Freestyle was picked up by teams like Bonebreak and they never got it to work properly either. It was not until the Naughty Dogs came around to looking for a new sponsor, that things started to happen. The HE kit was released soon there after which increased the efficiency from around 700 shots off a 68/45 to around 1000 shots off a 68/45. The HE kit has been used in every marker since the ND Freestyle. The boards also changed from a 2 switch board to a single switch board. The second switch was originally used for eyes on and off. All the stock freestyle boards except for predator boards have NO adjustments. Lubing these markers requires some skill, a torx wrench and some patients. There are 3 o rings that can be pinched on each re-assembly which caused many users to get upset. Due to the constant lubing of a blow forward marker, this marker always needed lubing and having to take a screw out and mess with the bolt every time you play, cased some people to freak out.

Some of the mods available were; the NOX board, Chaos board, Predator board, STD LPR, Super High Efficiency kit and many others.

Second Series:

Second series 2005 freestyles, which are the Freestyle Pro and V7 are very different markers. They have simple pull pin bolt assembly which allows them to be very simply lubed. They have larger gas ways which increase efficiency slightly and better boards which increase speed. The physical design of the Freestyle Pro allowed the solenoid to be mounted in the grip frame, very similar to Bob Long Intimidator’s. ICD also put in a QEV which was suppose to increase shooting speed. Without there knowledge the vendor of the QEV’s was unable to deliver a product that would not fail, so all the QEV’s did was hurt the over all performance of the marker. Eventually the later Freestyle Pro’s don’t have QEV’s. The board ended up being the next hurtle, the older Freestyle Pro’s have a not so good board, almost a direct pull from the 05 marker. This was updated with a much improved programmable board with a predator code installed for speed and ramping settings. The Freestyle pro is a bit longer then its predecessor but is shorter and a bit lighter too. After the minor fixes with the QEV and board updates, the Naughty Dogs started using these markers for a bit. Sadly, the solenoid mounting design caused the markers to NEVER be as quick as the older series. So ICD decided to make a new marker which would be a hybrid of both the FSP and the 05.

The V7 is the newest marker in a short list. The V7 is basically a Gen 1 or 2 with a removable bolt identical to the FSP. Most of the parts are interchangeable between the FSP and V7 except the solenoid and bolt section of the body. The V7 is a bit heavier then the FSP and a bit taller, but those differences are so minor that they are never seen in game play. The V7 also fixed many minor issues the FSP had like the bolt pin, power switch and of course QEV’s.

There was help from the Naughty Dogs at releasing the V7. Its almost the perfect tournament marker, very few problems, very light and very fast. Eventually other 3rd party companies came on board with the FSP like Adventure Beach or AB freestyle. Nobody has done a new V7 to date of this publication. But there are many people who want to. The Naughty Dogs have there own version of the V7 and FSP, but the FSP has been dropped in favor of the V7.

Some of the mods available are; NOX Reloaded, Predator board, STD LPR, Super High Efficiency kit and many others.

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Micha1979
Rec-Baller


Beiträge: 267
Wohnort: Mainz

BeitragVerfasst am: 28.01.2006 10:00   Antworten mit Zitat #6

http://h2gf.aznsensation.com/

http://www.h2gf.tk/

http://www.icd-owners.com
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Florian
Der alte Mann und das Hub

pbhub.de
Beiträge: 26472
Wohnort: Frankfurt am Meer

BeitragVerfasst am: 20.10.2006 00:07   Antworten mit Zitat #7





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icp-ms
Pups


Beiträge: 9831

BeitragVerfasst am: 27.09.2011 07:51   Antworten mit Zitat #8

Unbalancierte Regulatoren führen häufig zu Problemen mit den Freestyles.

1. drehe die Einstellschrauben der Regulatoren (HPR & LPR) gegen den Uhrzeigersinn. Bis beide Regs bei 0 Psi stehen.

2. Stecke ein Laufschaf in das Feed, um den Bolt hinten zu halten.

3. Erhöhe den Druck des HPR auf folgenden Wert:
(200-300Psi für den Stock Bolt)
(300-400Psi für HE Bolts)
(300-320Psi für den Hr1 *richtig getimed*)
(200-260Psi für die FS8)

4. Erhöhe langsam den Druck am LPR bis der Bolzen zurückfährt

5. Wenn der Bolt vollständig zurückgefahren ist, erhöht man den LPR Druck noch um eine viertel Umdrehung.

6. Schiess die Freestyle ein paar Schuss zur Probe und Chrone sie ein. Im Idealfall werden zu jeder Geschwindigkeit die Regulatoren Balanciert und die fps eben nicht nur über den HPR eingestellt.

Man sucht quasi den niedrigsten Druck, bei dem der Bolt noch vollständig den Schussablauf bewältigen kann.

Ein zu niedrig eingestellter LPR Druck kann zu unvollständigen Schussabläufen und Chops führen.
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icp-ms
Pups


Beiträge: 9831

BeitragVerfasst am: 27.09.2011 07:52   Antworten mit Zitat #9







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icp-ms
Pups


Beiträge: 9831

BeitragVerfasst am: 27.09.2011 07:58   Antworten mit Zitat #10

Stock LPR Wartung

Recommended Lubes:
Super lube: *paste style*
Dow 33
Slick Honey
Gun Butta

1. Start by taking the 010 buna oring, silver housing, spring, and brass piston out of the of the lpr!



2. Next. Unscrew the Lpr cap from the Lpr body, so you can access the derlen piston.





3. Push the Delrin Lpr piston out of the Lpr Body


4. You want to clean all the old lube off the derlin piston. and apply new lube to the oring on the derlin piston, then set it a side


5. Grab a Q-tip, Clean all the old lube out of the lpr body.


6. Now. Grab a clean Q-tip, put some Lube on it. Apply the lube to the inside of the lpr body
7. You can now reinstall the LPR piston, and reassemble the LPR as follows.

Make Sure The Adjustment Screw is turned completely "Counter Clockwise" before airing up your marker, to assure you don't over pressurize the noid
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icp-ms
Pups


Beiträge: 9831

BeitragVerfasst am: 27.09.2011 08:01   Antworten mit Zitat #11

Stock HPR Wartung

Recommended Lubes:

Super Lube
Dow 33
Slick Honey
Gun Butta


1. Okay so you have your stock HPR sitting in front of you.


2. Start by taking both the caps off the regulator. Be careful. Don't lose anything.



3. Now grab a small Allen key and push the hpr piston out of the regulator. Be careful not to damage the regulator seat.


4. Inspect the regulator seat. Make sure it is not damaged, clean it off, and reinstall it into the regulator.


5. Clean all the old lube of the hpr piston. Apply new lube to the -017 piston o-ring then set it aside.


6. Take a Q-tip and clean all the old lube out of the inside of the hpr body.


7. Now, grab a clean Q-tip and put some lube on it. Apply a thin coating of lube to the inside of the hpr body.

8. You can now reinstall the hpr piston and reassemble the HPR as follows.
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icp-ms
Pups


Beiträge: 9831

BeitragVerfasst am: 27.09.2011 08:02   Antworten mit Zitat #12

STD Lpr Wartung

Recommended Lubes:
Super lube:paste style
Dow 33
Slick Honey
Gun Butta


1. Remove the Lpr Cap.


2. Next, Use a pair of needle nose pliers, Gently remove the LPR piston.

3. Clean all the old lube off the lpr piston. Apply new lube to the 014 piston O-ring.

4. Before installing the lpr piston. Grab a Q-tip, clean all the old lube out of the inside of the lpr body.
5. Grab a NEW (clean) Q-tip, and put a little bit of lube on the end of it! apply a thin coating to the inside of the reg body.
6. Now. Put the lpr piston back into the lpr body. Followed by the main spring, and Lpr cap
(Complete disassembly)
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icp-ms
Pups


Beiträge: 9831

BeitragVerfasst am: 27.09.2011 08:03   Antworten mit Zitat #13

Palmer LPR Wartung

1. Start by unscrewing the LPR cap.

2. Get a 9/16th allen wrench, screw the LPR adjustment screw in to push the piston, spring, and washer out of the LPR body.

3. You want to clean all the old lube off the lpr piston. Apply new lube the Lpr piston O-ring, then set it aside.

4. Take a Q-tip and clean all the old lube out of the lpr body

5. Grab a clean Q-tip and put some Lube on it. Apply a thin coating of lube to the
inside of the LPR body

6. Now time for reassembly start by dropping the washer into the LPR body

7. Next drop the main spring into the LPR body

8. Followed by the brass LPR piston

9. Screw the Lpr back together and put the adjustment screw back in. Your finished
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icp-ms
Pups


Beiträge: 9831

BeitragVerfasst am: 27.09.2011 08:04   Antworten mit Zitat #14

AKA Sidewinder Wartung

1. Start By loosening the top and bottom caps on the ragulator using a strap wrench.

2. Unscrew both caps. Don't loose the brass washer!

3. Now, you have to push the pinston out. (I use a Q-Tip. So I dont scratch anything)

4. you want to lube the top oring on the piston! all the spring washers, the piston rod.
all the washers have a concave! Make sure the washers are like>)()()()(

* ALSO LUBE THE O-RING IN THE HPR BODY

5. then reinstall the piston and screw the top cap back onto the reg body


6.now put the brass washer back into the end cap and screw the bottom cap back on


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icp-ms
Pups


Beiträge: 9831

BeitragVerfasst am: 27.09.2011 08:05   Antworten mit Zitat #15

CP Inlinereg Wartung

Required tools:
Lube
Q-Tips
Strap Wrench
Macro line to remove the Hpr Piston

Recommended Lubes:
Super Lube
Dow 33
Slick Honey
Gun Butta

1. Start by unscrewing the HPR cap.


2. Now, Unscrew the middle of the HPR to gain access the HPR piston.



3. Push the HPR piston out if the middle casing


4. You want to lube the top oring on the piston, and the piston rod oring. Then set it aside.
All the washers have a concave! Make sure the washers are like


5. Take a Q-tip and clean all the old lube out of the middle casing


6. Now, grab a clean Q-tip and put some Lube on it. Apply a thin coating of lube to the inside of the middle casing


6. Start by putting the HPR piston back into the middle casing


7. Next. Put the washer back into the top and screw the top cap back onto the middle casing



8. Inspect the regulator seat. Make sure its clean before screwing the regulator halves together


9. Screw the HPR back together and Your Finished
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icp-ms
Pups


Beiträge: 9831

BeitragVerfasst am: 27.09.2011 08:06   Antworten mit Zitat #16

04/05 Stockbolt Wartung

Required tools:
Lube
Sae hex keys

Recommended Lubes:
Super Lube Oil
Radio Shack Lube Gel
Gun Butta


1. Remove the bolt retaining screw.


2. Pull the back block out of the marker body, so you can access the bolt kit.


3. Unscrew the bolt housing from the back block.


4. Remove the derlin bolt tip.


5. Push the bolt out of the bolt housing.



6. Now. There are 3 o-rings that need to be lubed on the ICD stock bolt kits. Make sure you clean the old lube off each part before applying new lubricant.
*1. The 006 valve stem o-ring on the inside of the bolt.

*2. The 017 bolt o-ring.

*3. The 017 bolt housing o-ring.


7. Put the bolt and power tube back into the bolt housing.


8. Screw the derlin bolt tip back on.


9. Screw the bolt kit into the back block and reinstall it back into your marker.
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icp-ms
Pups


Beiträge: 9831

BeitragVerfasst am: 27.09.2011 08:07   Antworten mit Zitat #17

04/05 HE Bolt

Required tools:
Lube
Sae hex keys

Recommended Lubes:
Super Lube Oil
Radio Shack Lube Gel
Gun Butta

1. Remove the bolt retaining screw.


2. Pull the back block out of the marker body, so you can access the bolt kit.


3. Unscrew the bolt housing from the back block.



4. Remove the derlin bolt tip.


5. Push the bolt out of the bolt housing


6. Now. There are 3 O-rings that need to be lubed on the ICD upgraded HE bolts.
Make sure you clean the old lube off each part before applying new lubricant.
*1. The 006 valve stem O-ring on the inside of the bolt.

*2. The 017 bolt O-ring.

*3. The 017 Bolt housing O-ring.


7. Now that the bolt O-rings are lubed, its time to reassemble the bolt kit.

8. Put the bolt back into the bolt housing. Pull the bolt to full extension.


9. Now install the power tube then screw the derlin bolt tip back on.



10. Screw the Bolt kit into the back block and reinstall it back into your marker.
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icp-ms
Pups


Beiträge: 9831

BeitragVerfasst am: 27.09.2011 08:09   Antworten mit Zitat #18

HR1 Boltkit Wartung

Required tools:
Lube

Recommended Lubes:
Super Lube Oil
Radio Shack Lube Gel
Gun Butta

1. Ok. So you have your Fs7/Fsp sitting in front of you. Start by removing the pull pin/ snatchgrip. Then pull the bolt out the back of your 'Style

2. Make sure the bolt in pushed IN like pictured below. The bolt should NOT be extended.

3. Start by unscrewing the middle of the bolt. **NOTE** stop at the half way point in the threaded area.


4. Pull the derlin bolt tip to full extension. You will feel it get hard to pull for a quick second. Don't worry this is the -008 stem o-ring popping out of the Hr1 valve casing.


5. You can now unscrew the rest of the bolt kit.


6. Unscrew the derlin bolt tip.


7. Pull the bolt out of the bolt housing.


8. There are 4 spots that need to be Lubed on the Hr1 bolt kits.
1st, being the -008 valve stem o-ring on the inside of the bolt.

2nd, being the -017 bolt o-ring.

3rd, being the -017 o-ring on the inside of the bolt housing.

The 4th doesn't need to be lubed until after bolt reassembly.

9. Now. Your bolt kit is ready to be reassembled.


10. Start by putting the bolt back into the bolt housing, then pull the bolt to full extension.



11. Now, put the bolt housing and valve body together.



Once screwed together, push the bolt back in. So you can access the 4th spot to lube.


12. Now, You want to lube the -008 stem o-ring.


13. Okay, now screw the back cap of the Hr1 kit on. **BEFORE** you do this, pull the bolt to full extension again. *ALSO* don't just screw the cap on. Stop half way!



14. Push the bolt back in. It will get hard to push again, but will become easy once the -008 stem O-ring passes the Hr1 valve casing.


15. Now that the bolt is pushed in, the oring has passed the Hr1 valve casing and you can screw the rest of the back cap on.


This way you don't throw off your Hr1 kit timing when taking the bolt apart to lube it. Install the bolt back in your marker, have fun, and play safe!
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Pups


Beiträge: 9831

BeitragVerfasst am: 27.09.2011 08:13   Antworten mit Zitat #19

Gen 1 Nox Programming

All of the major settings on the NOX FS Board may easily be changed using trigger programming. A pushbutton tournament lock is employed to prevent programming the settings on the field during play.

NOTE: Be sure to follow all safety precautions before programming the settings as to prevent accidental firing of the marker.


1.Entering The Programming Menu

First you will need to gain access to the NoX FS board by removing the right-hand grip panel to expose the battery compartment. The small white pushbutton on the bottom of the board functions as the tournament lock and allows easy entry into the programming menu.

To enter the programming menu, power up the marker and press the pushbutton switch on the back of the board with a nonconductive object until the LED on the power switch changes its normal blink style to let you know that the programming menu is now active.


2.Changing Menu Selections

The NOX board provides a large range of settings that can be changed by trigger programming. Each setting has a different blink pattern in the programming menu.

1. Firing Mode (1 blink)
i. Semi-Automatic (unlimited)
ii. Capped Semi-Automatic (14-20bps)
iii. Capped Enhanced Semi-Automatic (14-20bps)
iv. Training (3 semi, pause 1 sec, 3 semi…)

2. Eye Mode (two blinks)
i. Delay shot on empty breech
ii. Drop shot on empty breech
iii. Disabled (for eyeless markers)

3. Dwell Period (5 – 25 ms) (three blinks …)
4. Adaptive Trigger Filter (1 – 25)
5. Paint Filter (0 – 15 ms)
6. FSDO Kick (0 – 15 ms)
7. Coarse ROF (14 – 20 bps, for capped modes)
8. Fine ROF (adds 0, ¼, ½, ¾ bps to coarse setting)
9. Bypass Cap (8 – 14 bps)

To change a menu selection while in the programming menu, use short trigger pulls. Each time the trigger is pulled and released, the number of blinks will indicate the new menu selection. To return to a previous menu selection, keep pulling the trigger and the menu will wrap around and start over.


3.Viewing the Current Setting

To view the stored setting of the current menu selection, hold the trigger in for two seconds and release. The LED will now go back to normal blinking, and blink out the setting, repeating after a short pause. To return to the programming menu without making any changes, use one short trigger pull. All of the settings may viewed this way without having to go through the full programming cycle.


4.Changing the Current Setting

After viewing the setting, you may change it by holding the trigger in for two seconds and releasing. The LED will now blink out the minimum value for this setting. In some cases the minimum value is zero (FSDO and Paint Delay) and the LED will not blink at all. To increase the value of the setting, use short trigger pulls. There is no time limit and the LED will continue to blink out the new value, repeating after a short pause. To keep the new setting, hold the trigger in for two seconds and release. This will save the value of the setting on the board and return to the programming menu. In the case that you don’t want to keep the new setting, hold the trigger in for five seconds and release. The programming cycle will be aborted and return back to the programming menu.

5.Exiting Programming Mode

The only way to exit programming mode is to power off the marker. Any changes that were saved to the board during programming will be remembered and restored each time the marker is powered on.
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Pups


Beiträge: 9831

BeitragVerfasst am: 27.09.2011 08:13   Antworten mit Zitat #20

Nox Reloaded Programming

Nox Reloaded Board Programming

All of the major settings on the NOX Board may easily be changed using trigger programming.

A pushbutton tournament lock toggle is employed to prevent programming the settings on the field during play.

**NOX is not responsible for settings that the user sets to make their guns illegal for certain tournaments (NPPL or PSP). It's the users responsibility to insure the filter settings are set to specific tournament standards. Also NOX is not responsible for dirty, worn, or user setup TOO BOUNCY switches. Specifications for products may change without notice.

NOTE: Be sure to follow all safety precautions before programming the settings as to prevent accidental firing of the marker.


Entering The Programming Menu:

As shipped, the tournament lock is unlocked by default. To enter the main programming menu, power up the marker and hold the trigger in for five seconds until the LED changes its normal blink style to let you know that the programming menu is now active.


Changing Menu Selections:

The NOX board provides a large range of settings that can be changed by trigger programming. Each setting has a different blink pattern in the main programming menu.


1. firing mode (main menu, 1 blink)
a. semi, (1) blink
b. capped semi, (2) blinks
c. PSP 3 ball burst, (3) blinks
d. NXL, full auto, (4) blinks
e. Millennium, (5) blinks, (uses ramp point)
f. linear ramp (6) blinks, (uses ramp point and ramp level)
g. training mode, (7) blinks

2. eye mode (main menu, 2 blinks)
a. delay shot on empty breech, (1) blink
b. drop shot on empty breech, (2) blinks
c. disable eye check, (3) blinks

3. dwell (6-25 ms) (main menu, 3 blinks…)
4. trigger debounce (set 1-25)
5. paint debounce (0-15 ms)
6. mechanical debounce (set 0-10)
7. drop-off adjustment (0-15 ms)
8. ramp point (2-12 bps)
9. ramp level (set 1-3)
10. rof (14-20 bps, 21 for unlimited)
11. rof fine, added to rof in 1/4 bps (0 = 0, 1 = 1/4, 2 = 2/4, 3 = 3/4)
12. bypass rof (8-14 bps)

To change a selection while in the main programming menu, use short trigger pulls. Each time the trigger is pulled and released, the number of blinks will indicate the new menu selection. To return to a previous menu selection, keep pulling the trigger and the menu will wrap around and start over.


Viewing the current setting:

To view the stored setting of the current menu selection, hold the trigger in for two seconds and release. The LED will now go back to normal blinking, and blink out the setting, repeating after a short pause. To return to the programming menu without making any changes, use one short trigger pull. All of the settings may viewed this way without having to go through the full programming cycle.


Changing the Current Setting:

After viewing the current setting, you may change it by holding the trigger in for two seconds and releasing. The LED will now blink out the minimum value for this setting. In some cases the minimum value is zero (FSDO and Paint Delay) and the LED will not blink at all. To increase the value of the setting, use short trigger pulls. There is no time limit and the LED will continue to blink out the new value, repeating after a short pause. To keep the new setting, hold the trigger in for two seconds and release. This will save the value of the setting on the board and return to the main programming menu. In the case that you don’t want to keep the new setting, hold the trigger in for five seconds and release. The programming cycle will be aborted and return back to the programming menu.


Exiting Programming Mode:

The only way to exit programming mode is to power off the marker. Any changes that were saved to the board during programming will be remembered and restored each time the marker is powered on.


Changing the Tournament Lock Status:

First you will need to gain access to the NoX board by removing the right-hand grip panel to expose the battery compartment. The small white pushbutton on the bottom of the FS board (FSP and Cyborg boards have a small gold button on the back of the board) functions as the tournament lock toggle. Pressing and holding the button for one second will toggle the state of the lock and the LED will blink one time for unlocked and two times for locked. Releasing the button will return the marker to normal operation. This setting is remembered like the other settings when the marker is powered off. This allows for easy entry into main programming menu when set to unlocked without the need to open up the grips.
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