Originally posted by Fargbollen
Why have Matrixes had less paint breaks with brittle paint and HALOs than Angels even though the cycling isn't more gentle?
Why does the gun still "chop" even though I have eyes on it and it runs on the supposed "nice-on-paint" 50/200 psi setting? WTF!???!
Now I know exactly why. It has mostly to do with not quite obviuos board settings and the bolt position. Well, I'm sure some people here already knew these things or at least the greater part of it, but I'll sum it up so anyone can do it easy.
The following is instructions on how to not get any paint breaks (chops, barrel breaks and so on)on an LP Angel with eyes, even using very brittle paint and using a HALO. This includes Speed 03/04 or A4 with aftermarket eye boards (WAS, Predator, Syndicate), A4 FLY with stock WDP board, Speed 05 with stock WDP board, G7 with stock WDP board.
Of course, if you're using unusable damaged paint then there is a limit where nothing works, this is just a guideline on how to make the gun work under normal conditions. But it's amazing how well these few things actually work. Try it and you'll see.
Just follow the guidelines below.
I've isolated the three factors that are most important, and I'll list them in the order of precedence although you should do all three.
It's easy as 1,2,3...
1. Correct BIP
The Ball in Place Delay needs to be long enough so that a ball will have time to settle in the breech before being fired.
If it doesn't, then it will be slammed against the front edge of the breech, something that tough paint can handle but brittle can't which results mostly in breaks in the barrel and sometimes in the breech.
This is the thing I finally figured out: It has been thought by most manufacturers of guns and custom boards that this delay needs to be a lot less than it actually has for the ball to never have contact with the breech edge. On slower cycling guns this worked, but as guns have been made to pneumatically cycle faster and faster a proper BIP delay becomes more and more of a factor and at the same time it becomes less of a hindrance to high ROF.
The BIP time delay is called different things depending on board manufacturer. BIP is as far as I recall a WAS board standard, on the WDP boards this is adjsuted by what's called the "hopper speed setting" (slow hopper type = very high BIP delay), on a DM board it's called "Eye sensitivity level", on Chaos boards it's called After Eye Delay and so on. But it's the same thing in the end, just different names for it. I prefer the name BIP as this is a more exact definition of what it really is.
Anyway, this is the ony thing you really need to be aware of: The more brittle paint you use the higher BIP should be used. And the BIP recommended by most manufacturers is often much too short for brittle paint.
Note that the paint may be fine and strong at the beginning of the day but cold and/or wet weather conditions affect paintballs a great deal, making them temporarily more brittle. Do a drop test on a hard surface, if the paint can be dropped from overhead and bounce, you have tough paint, if it breaks when dropped from waist level it's very brittle and needs more BIP.
Here's an example: Set an A4 FLY to one or two steps lower hopper type if you use brittle paint, I'd recommend Medium speed for HALO B, not the Fast setting. If you still break paint, try the Slow setting, the gun will still shoot ropes.
Do not lower ROF when using brittle paint, just the BIP/ Hopper speed setting.
2. Rollback
Rollback needs to be adjusted to a minimum or paint in the ballstack gets pinched during the firing cycle. Some guns have less rollback than a normally set up Angel, some have a lot more, this has to do with how far forward the bolt position is and what type of bolt face is used. Flat face Radioactive or flat face Venturii or WDP softface are the best alternatives i've found so far. On your Angel set the Ram to where the breech clicks. An alternative is to use the jam/RAS bolt.
Note that on the G7 this is done automatically at a pull of the back lever.
3. Gun cycling pressure 50/200 or less.
Pre G7 models may need the valve spring cut or replaced for this setting to work. I recommend using a spring taken from a Straight Shot squeegie or similar as it's fairly the right strength and dimensions.
Set the gun cycling pressure to 50 psi in the LPR, about 200 on the inline reg and Dwell at a level where the gun doesn't get drop-off.
This does three things, mostly it reduces kick and sound signature, but it's also handy in emergencies when you need to shoot with the eyes turned off because it lessens the risk of a full chop.
Hört sich sehr hilfreich und vernünftig an, nun ran ans Werk!
